Mali Weave - variations

[buttafingers]

This may be a dumb question, but wouldn't it be better to get the majority of the pull done in the vert's, before even starting a weave?

Maybe you need to build a puller. I made one in 20 minutes out of a 2' piece of 3/4 EMT conduit, an 8" length of 1/8' pipe bent to a slight curve (rod would work fine, I already had the scrap) and a 5/16" cold-shut chain repair. I hammered the end of the tubing nearly flat, leaving about an 1/8" gap between the sides. I then welded on the curved pipe to the flattened end. About 8" up from the end I just welded, I attached the cold-shut on with it's "eye" towards the top of the handle. When it was all done, I cut most of the cold-shut off, leaving a finger with a slight upturned knob on the end of it. Probably cost me a couple dollars and it greatly speeds the tuning and reduces any weaving I have to do to finish.

I was going to go thru the trouble of bending the flat steel, shaping it and adding a support so that the attachment point of the rope was off of the main handle but this way is much faster and seems to work fine, although I've never used one of the "pro" build pullers.

When I am pulling, I just put the "finger" under a vertical, wrap it once and then set the curved foot down on a rag near the bottom ring and pull the rope down with great mechanical advantage. You can clip off the rope with pliers as some do, but I find if I continue to wrap the loose end around the top knot and pinch it all together tightly, it is enough to remove the puller and move to the next vert without losing much. Besides, I'd rather make to rounds and pull it more evenly than one hulk session. It will still end up being faster than pulling two rows of diamonds.

[bubudi]

yes, pulling the verts until the drum is tuned is what all professional djembe builders do. the tone will drop though after a short while and then half to a full row of mali weave will bring the drum back to where you want it.

pulling bars are good, pulling stands are even better. i have made pulling bars from a long, thick wooden stick (axe handles can also be good). you need to shape the bottom or attach a padded cross piece so that it rests well on the bottom of the bowl of your drum. drill a hole through the main bar, thread some cord and attach a clam cleat/ascender (available at any boating or climbing shop) and you have a pulling bar. no welding necessary. the clam cleat/ascender gives you a much firmer grip without the need to wind the rope around anything - quick in and out which saves you time. you can adjust the distance between the cleat and the bar using the cord you tie it with. simplicity is a great thing.

[Ronen]

Now that sounds like what I need to pull a calf skin !

Thank you.

[Djembe-nerd]

Bubudi,

Can you post a pic of your puller, it will give a better idea.