by Rhythm House Drums » Sat Dec 31, 2011 4:52 am
BTW, the drums aren't usually carved oval, they warp as they dry out if they are not dried evenly. This can because of environment, grain pattern, or sap wood and wall thickness. If the drum is carved out too green it will for sure warp and shrink as it dries. Also if the wall thickness is not consistent it can dry at different rates which will warp the shell. I've never heard of a drum being carved oval (intentionally), so I'm pretty sure it happens in the drying process. The bearing edge profile makes more of a difference in sound than the roundness.. might have something to do with your skins breaking soon as well. Make sure it is as level as possible, and that the round-over is consistent all the way around.
A few things... as others have said, shape the rings to the shell. If they are fitted nice and snug they should shape themselves to your shell. If they're a little big you should bend them so they are equal all around. Also, don't pull too tight while wet. I've seen many skins break early because of this. Make sure to wait a good 3-4 days before doing a dry pull... they head may seem dry, but the skin under the ring will be wet longer. If you're skins are breaking on the sides (between the bearing edge and the rings, than you are pulling too tight while still wet, or you have a sharp / high point on the edge.
Also, with an oval drum (or any drum) it's all about consistent tension on the head. Don't worry so much about the levelness of the rings, worry about the sound. If your ring is high on one end but the pitch sounds the same in that spot.. pulling more to bring the ring down is a bad idea...