by Rhythm House Drums » Wed Feb 23, 2011 3:12 pm
The bent gouge as Michi has shown will do good for the lager diameter around the bearing edge and be able to go about 3/4 the way down, but you'll have problems lower in the bowl and doing the bottom, if you planned on that as well.
A sharp scorp is your best option. It will get down in there and it cuts on the pull stroke. They have smaller one handed ones or for taking large chunks of wood they have larger two handed ones. This is what they use mostly in West Africa, either a scorp or a large bent knife/hook knife with a handle that's long enough to use both arms.... it's not easy work either route you go.
The spiral pattern doesn't do much. Will will cut down the sustain a little... depending on how the drum is shaped now. I've seen a lot of those manufactured drums that have lathe marks on the inside to cut down the sustain. The size of the head in relation to the size of the sound hole in relation to the size of the bowl in relation to the length and width of the trumpet (bottom half), all effect the sustain more than the tiny bit irregular surface area that you create inside the bowl.
It doesn't have to be a spiral. The spiral is there because that's most efficient direction to hollow out wood. Going across the grain is hard and you have no leverage, going directly down can cause the the wood to splinter and tare.. so you carve it hollow by using a spiral. The sound waves produced by the djembe are too large to be effected by a little bit of carving inside the shell, however the air pressure inside the shell, and how it release when you hit the drum...and tension on the head have a lot to do with the sustain... and again this is determined more by shape/size.
Hope this helps... all that said... I'm builing a pro line of staved djembes now.. and I do carve a spiral pattern on the inside of the shell. For two reasons, it helps me round the shell after I glue up the slats, and because it does cut down a tiny bit on resonance