Lunar eclipse drumming in Mali

[VagabonTribe]

In 2006 I was in a village in Kirina, Mali. Kirina is a very interesting village - split into two halves: on one half are a number jeli (griot) families, and the other half are descendents of the former "slaves" of the griots. I don't have details on what that relationship once was, but in 2006 it was hard to tell the difference between the two sides of the villge - save the fact that most griot families do have a more "sophisticated" presence. But they all farm and struggle at the same levels of subsistence.

There was a bit of a bustle in the village one day and I asked what was going on. Everyone said there would be a party in the village that evening. I asked why, and everyone just said, why not. I realized later, during the dusk hours that it was to be a full moon that night. Drummers (2 djembe, one konkoni, one dununba without bell) came out, everyone in the village was in the streets, clapping, singing, dancing to the drummers. A larger circle formed and many young girls entered as individuals or in pairs to cross the circle and dance a bit - simple moves, nothing fancy. I asked why only they were dancing and not others. Many said it was an opportunity for the young girls to "present themselves" - a sort of "coming out" time of the larger celebration.

The drummers then began to move, walking toward the other side of the village while playing. A crowd of people followed, singing, clapping,, and celebrating. This is one of the few occasions during my time in Mali where I witnessed all ages, classes, both men and women together in what appeared to be undefined roles - compared to other times like daily work, eating, evening conversations, etc., where gender, class, and age defines how people function. As we approached the other side of the village i saw another crowd gathered there - a group of jeli families also singing and dancing (2 large talking drums, two kerinyan - metal scraper). The musicians from the two groups came together and continued to play. More singing and dancing, then everyone from the two groups crossed back to the other side of the village, where the same activities continued. Some of the songs were fabulous, very Maninka-esque similar to many of Mamady Keita or Famadou Konate recordings (I have hundreds of hours of audio recordings from Mali and am searching for the samples).

I then noticed that the sky was drastically changing hue and texture, and wow, a lunar eclipse was beginning. Everyone was excited and the music was very intense, many people dancing and singing. I asked what was happening and their responses were "the sky and the moon are having an accident", "the cat ate the moon", "the moon is hiding". It is not difficult, even in a number of villages, to find someone who has been to university, often the school teachers. But I could not find anyone who could explain the concept of a lunar eclipse to me, the scientific understanding apparently absent from their education and experience. The whole party lasted for about 4 hours, then began to dwindle. Drummers continued to play to a small crowd of people for another hour or so. And then it was over. Everyone went back home, drank tea, had group conversation and went to bed.

A very interesting experience

[Michel]

Wow, that sounds interesting. I assume it was in Wassoulou? What a great experience. When the recordings have the same quality as the Mali Kan c.d's,..... would be great to hear.

Thanks for sharing!

[rachelnguyen]

What a special experience that must have been. Thank you for sharing it.

[VagabonTribe]

Kirina is not far from Kangaba. This area is Maninka central, but northwest of Wassalou

[bubudi]

kirina is where, according to the sunjata epic, king sumanguru and his soso army were defeated. very historically significant place.

it would be awesome to hear some of your village recordings, rusty. thanks for sharing this experience.